Episode 25: Changing the Recipe

Nicole and Jenny talk about the how's and why's of pattern modification and drool over the fall IK preview...

Episode 25: Changing the Recipe (35:09)

Boss around your knitting!

Why do we change patterns?

• Wanting to use a different yarn than called for
• Finished versions found online
• Accounting for ease
• Changing the shape to fit your body
• Not getting gauge...
• Modifying to knit in the round: take out seam stitches and cast on!

What do we do?

• Know your measurements! Hips, waist, bust, armhole and the distances between...
• Know your gauge! Stitch and row!
• Look at the schematic and figure out where changes are needed
• Damn those armholes!
• Barbara Walker's top down set in sleeves
• Nicole's first attempt at armholes
• Know your fiber and how it will stretch...
• Less ease in the bust, more ease in the hips...
• Nicole's boobholder
• Getting raglan seam lengths right: increase until you get your upper arm stitch count?
• Wicked
• The eyelet hole conundrum

Adjusting patterns as your go

• Example: Molly Ringwald
  • Getting a different gauge. Decide on your size, times the gauge by the number of inches. Follow the shaping by figuring out how many inches are decreased and increased and then work out the numbers with the new gauge. Figure out how wide the ruching is by figuring out the width by the stitch count. Adjust your count accordingly.

• Example: Josephine
  
  • Changing the amount of ease at the bust to account for yarn stretch. To get negative ease in the stockinette portion: make more decreases under the arm and accomodate for fewer stitches at the top.

The next challenge: Knowing what shapes suit your body...

The Fall IK Preview!

Yarn shopping for Norah Gaughan's Tilted Duster...
Cirilia's mission: what do the Berroco Peruvia colors really looks like?
The Minimalist Cardigan by Ruthie Nussbaum: For Ming?
Deborah Newton's Hedgerow Coat: made in O-Wool!
Tangled Yoke Cardigan by Eunny Jang in Felted Tweed
Ann Budd Tyrolean socks
Mary Jane Mucklestone's Mirepoix bodice: bust bisection... in style?
Fair Isle 101 from Winter IK 2005
Bauhaus pullover from Spring IK 2007
Miss Interweave is back!
What happened to the redheaded model?

Some podcast resources for pattern readjustment and technical issues in knitting:
Christa Knits!
Knit Science

Thanks for listening!

Music:
Dig Me Out: Sleater Kinney
All I want to Know: The Magnetic Fields
Stella: Continental

Comments

[Tracy H.]

Knitting socks for myself taught me to see patterns as guidelines and starting points for my projects, rather than as must-follow directions. Sock patterns tend to assume the calf and foot are the same circumference - my calves are a good 3" larger.

[patricia]

Great episode!
Another helpful resource for adapting patterns is the first chapter of Stitch and Bitch Nation. As a fairly new knitter, I was able to substitute a yarn by following the book's instructions on finding the ratio of difference in gauge between the two yarns, and then applying that ratio to the entire pattern--which the books explains how to do--before I started knitting. It worked perfectly for me.

Another helpful resource is Maggie Righetti's Sweater Design in Plain English. If you can get past the dowdy photos, the book has great info on designing sweaters, which can easily be applied to adapting existing patterns as well. It explores the arm scye conundrum, which you discussed on the podcast, and tells you how to make it work.

[Leslie]

Another wonderful episode! :)

[Cirilia]

Oh man, I can't wait to listen to this episode! I'm obsessing over yarn choices for the Minimalist Cardigan and I can't wait to hear what you two have to say.

I feel like your East Coast yarn store correspondent =)

[Amber]

Awesome episode! A great resource for plus size girls is the front part of Big Girl Knits (Amy Singer/Jillian Moreno). They teach you to have a measuring party, how to figure out adjustments, short rows for boobs, etc. Love it!

[Lori]

I made a cardigan very similar to the "minimalist cardigan". I love the way moss stitch looks, it's so pretty. I also like it 'cause it's such an easy stitch pattern, I taught myself to read while knitting my moss-stitch cardi.

[Courtney Quintana]

Hello, first off I wanted to say you girls are great and I love listening to you. I live near San Fran an it is nice having someone with a pod cast close to home, because I can actually go to the places you talk about. So I have a question, can you or have you done a cast on how to do measurements for garments, like how to measure the armholes and what not? I am just starting to make garments and I came across a problem when knitting the tilted duster from interweave knits fall 07, it said knit in pattern until armhole measures, and I had to look really hard to find out where to measure from and too. Thanks so much for all you do... You girls ROCK!!!

[Courtney Quintana]

I have a Tilted Duster KAL that started a few days ago at www.tilteddusterkal.blogspot.com

[Bronwyn]

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I am almost finished with my minimalist cardigan, and have some notes on the blog about the design. I have the top of one sleeve left, as well as blocking; while I could finish it today, I have an illustration due so it will have to wait til tomorrow to be all done!

I'm knitting mine out of Silk Road Aran, which is a little large gauge-wise, but on a slightly smaller needle, it has a lusciously soft jacket-like feel. I love it so far.

[Cindy Roberts]

Thanks for the alteration tips. This has given me the courage to plan on changing my next pattern to fit my big butt better! :)

[Margaret]

Did you really say that you don't know what Pam Allen looks like? Her picture is on all the Interweave "Letter from the Editor" pages for the last couple of years. Also, remember "Scarf Style"? :)
www.interweave.com/knit/books/scarf_style.asp

[Sally Villarreal]

I was proud of my Cherry Bomb because I made it a size 3.25X (The original sizes were 3X and 3.5X.)

I think the key to all this is being honest with yourself about what's going coming off your needles. It's easy to convince yourself it's going to work when you're in the midst of it, and then come crashing back to reality when you're done.

I'm looking at "Boobholder" on Ravelry and all the different fits. I'm wondering how it would look on my droopy boobs.

IK is fine, but personally I get all excited about Knitty.

Great job, guys!

[Deborah]

I like Jenny's idea about getting a raglan seam length right! It makes so much sense. I am just about to cast on for Wendy Bernard's "Marilyn's Not So Shrunken Cardigan", which is knit top down. I have read comments by knitters who have made this, saying that the raglan needs to be shortened. Until I listened to the podcast I couldn't wrap my mind around the concept. I'm going to try Jenny's suggestion and increase until I have the desired width around the upper arm - I'll let you know how it works!

[Steph]

All the useful tips on today's episode - I normally erase each episode after I listen to it, but this one is staying in ITunes! Lots of really great ideas - thanks again ladies!

[raquel]

Talking about changes, have you seen the article "Nine women, one sweater" from knitting daily?
It's very good and have lots and lots of pictures about the Corset Pullover and nine women.

[Laura Todd]

I just had to finally send you a comment to tell you both how much I enjoy your podcast. I love the content, the rapport you both have, and how you provide constructive information and critique. So nice that you maintain a natural discussion, positive attitude, and are respectful of others. Thanks for your contribution to knitting.

[Stephanie]

First off, love your podcast. Could you guys explain ease negative/postive...not sure what that is.

[Elizabeth]

You two are an amazing wealth of information. I love your podcasts. What just knocks me over is that you haven't been knitting all that long, but you've really made it your own. I've knit since I was 8, but never have been as adventurous as you two are in changing patterns and just going for it. You are an inspiration. Thanks again for another fun episode.

[Karma]

This episode is pretty much what happens in my head every time I start (or consider) a new project. How can I make it my own? And I love that you are able to discuss all the possibilities for modifications without fear or uncertainty. Just go for it! Woot!

Jenny, I did the same thing with the IK staff poncho project. hee hee.

[wildtomato]

Thanks for the great episode! I have been looking up patterns for the single skeins that were either gifted to me or impulse buys, so this was a handy episode. I started listening to your podcast when I first learn to knit, so it has helped me keep my stash down and cut back on my "oh my gosh I have to have this yarn" moments. Hopefully I can get some projects done and posted in time for your contest.

[Lori]

What a great podcast! - I just found your site when I did a search for the minimalist cardigan and listened during my lunch break. I most now go back and hear the rest of your episodes. Thanks for the practical, light-hearted info.

Lori